Having bemoaned the lack of tourist facilities in Da Nang we now find that we're swamped by them; all in competition for what are basically the same offers. Consequently, the average tourist is approached, or just yelled at, every ten metres down the street. The cyclos are the worst as they easily pedal next to you chanting, "One hour. Where you from?", until you are forced to bark back. I caught Linda doing a "GO AWAY!" more than once. It's back to the imperiously dismissive wave we perfected in some of the more aggressive Turkish markets, I'm afraid.
On the plus side of the tourist trap, there is a greater preponderance of cheap 'n tasty bars and restaurants. Steve, when you were here did you make the seemingly famous DMZ Bar on the corner of Le Loi (the main road running alongside the Huong River) and Pham Ngu Lao? It's this last street that's the Hue equivalent of Pub Street in Siem Reap. We did make it past all those establishments, believe it or not, to eat at the Rough Guide recommended Viet restaurant, Mandarin Cafe. Besides providing simple and tasty local food, the restaurant is also noteworthy for doubling up as Mr Cu's photography gallery. While you are waiting for your courses, the girls pass out thick binders of his best work. Try the link above and check them out.
More Culture: the first day took us to the 19th century walled citadel on the north side of the Huong (Perfume) River. Within that are the remains of the once magnificent Imperial City. Within that, the remains the homes of nine ranks of royal concubines and associated pleasure palaces known as the Forbidden Purple City. Unlike many of the archaeological sites in the SE Asian region, this is not so old and didn't weather the American War too well, but efforts are being made to restore it to its former glory. The eighty ironwood pillars in the emperor's throne room, for example, survived the bombs but were just about eaten away by termites and humidity. We were told that during the restoration, every column, weighing two tonnes apiece, had to be replaced manually and then painted with 12 coats of lacquer, each coat taking one month to dry. And that's just one room. There's a lot of rubble to recreate yet!
Early night tonight. Gotta get up by 6 tomorrow.
5 comments:
Hi, just dug out an old map of the city, so I know where you are. Did not make that bar, but its all coming back to me( Mr envious ). One word of warning if you had not forgotten and thats do not forget about the LANDMINES, as they are bloody everywhere !!!
American war eh ! Glad to see you are towing the party line ! When in Nam etc....
I am in Phnom Phen at the moment- hell but somebody has to do it ! Can relate to the local transport annoyance - here it's 'tuk tuk ?' every 5 yards. Big decison to be made soon - will it be 136 street or 104 street ....nice problem !
Mines ? when did Steve go ? -1968 ?? Be careful out there...
Bangkok Banger
Landmines is that one of the local cocktails? guaranteed to blow your socks off!!
Just battening down the hatches as big snow forecast for Friday.
Ask the locals if they need a hand Trants are looking for work.
I wonder where they are ..... early start Thursday and nothing since. Is Dave finally up the creek without a paddle or computer?
Greetings from snowy Woodlands. Sorry, travellers have been very tardy since last check in.
I must get the maps out and see exactly where you are!
We have been very busy watching the snow fall, the weather forecasts and the news about possible snow....... One thing is for sure -2C during the day on a Sunday is not my idea of fun.
I am enjoying my virtual January holiday, so bon voyage to the next "installment"
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